Rock Climbing in the Twin Cities
There are two climbing spots within an hour's drive of Minneapolis or St. Paul.
On the Minnesota-Wisconsin border, straddling the St. Croix river, are basalt cliffs. The climbing ranges from easy climbs for beginners and children, through a variety of routes that get as easy, or just about as difficult as you like are possible. Many places for anchors, and easy access to the cliff make it perfect for top-roping. Trad lead climbing is also possible on most of the routes here. The unique geology of the St. Croix valley created many interesting rock formations and bouldering opportunities.
All climbers at Interstate State Park need a climbing permit, which can be obtained for free at the park office. A parking permit is also required to park in the Minnesota side lot, and a Wisconsin parking permit is required to park on the Wisconsin side.
Pros: The rock is mostly great, solid holds, solid places for anchors and protection, nice variety of climbs, and a great view from the top.
Cons: Mostly great means that there are still places with loose rocks, and size of the loose stuff is usually somewhere between "large" and "large boulder". Wildlife enjoy the rocks too - wasps love Taylors Falls as much as the climbers do.
Interstate State Park - Wisconsin Side
]Interstate State Park - Minnesota Side
A limestone bluff high above the town of Red Wing on the Mississippi River has almost a good a view from the top as you get at Taylors Falls.
Setting top rope anchors at Red Wing is either impossible, or prohibited due to ecological damage done to the top of the cliff. So most routes are bolted for sport leading and have fixed anchors at the top of the routes.
Trad lead climbing is possible here but this is one place you'll really want to know what you are doing - the rock is nowhere near as solid as it is at Taylors Falls.
Pros: Minimal gear requirements as every established route has been bolted for sport leading. A rope, a set of quick draws and a buddy is all you need for a day of climbing.
Cons: You'll also need to wear a helmet for protection from regular climbing hazards, and also from rocks that local kids seem to enjoy throwing from the top of the bluff.
Routes at Taylors Falls and Red Wing are described in the Minnesota climber's bible, Rock Climbing in Minnesota and Wisconsin, by Mike Farris, available at outdoor stores and bookstores in the Twin Cities. And as the title suggests, there is plenty of beta for several other climbing crags around the region.
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